Hiking in Hanoi

Hong Kong to Hanoi - oh how simple it was but how complicated it was made out to be courtesy of Samuel of Cathy Pacific. Thanks Sam, you're a legend.

After saying goodbye to our sleepy American compardres in Chongking Mansions we jumped on a bus across Kowloon over to Lantau Island arriving at a very swanky Hong Kong International Airport. Checking in at the Cathy Pacific desk (carriers for Vietnam Airlines) we were greeted by the initially friendly Samuel (or Sam to us, as we're such good friends now) who went through the usual routine; collecting our bags; checking our passports etc. Then we were asked whether we had an onward ticket out of Vietnam or some kind of itinerary for our onward travels? We explained that we were planning to catch a bus from Ho Chi Minh city to Cambodia but that we could only book the bus once we arrived in Vietnam - all simple enough, or so we thought. It seems that this wasn't enough to comply with the airline's policy - i.e. they don't want to be held accountable for any travellers staying in the county past their visa expiry deadlines and as a result Sam threatened to block us boarding our flight!!! The only apparent alternative was to buy another 'very reasonably priced' flight there and then out of Vietnam and cancel the flight should we not decide to use it, the cancellation charge being in the region of $250HKD - absolute bats!!

After a lot of tooing and froing a waiver form was thrust in our face which we were required to sign before catching our flight with Sam tersely warning us that we may encounter problems at immigration control upon arrival in Hanoi.

So we got on the flight...

We arrived in Hanoi.

We had our passports stamped.

We collected our luggage.

We left the airport.

We even got a smile from the customs official (quite rare).

So, no problems whatsoever. Thanks Sam (and Crappy Pacific).

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We caught the bus into Hanoi city and the first thing that struck me was that everything was so green - a mere 2 minutes from the airport there were spectacular scenes of lush green rice fields, a winding stream and water buffalo and cows wading in the water - it was really quite stunning and much more how I expected the rural parts of China to be (which they may have been had it not been for the mist!). We arrived in bustling Hanoi and after a small wild goose-chase (more of a wild gosling-chase) where a local 'hotel-owner' led us round the houses for a little unwanted back-pack lugging we settled upon a hotel for the night - somewhat bigger than our spacious Hong Kong suite thankfully!

Although this is Grem's second time in Hanoi (though she has still wandered around as lost as anywhere else we've been!) this is the first time I've experienced this hectic but fascinating city. As Grem has posted the scooters and motorbikes are unbelievable but more importantly for me Vietnam has the cheapest beer in the world - I have now set upon a quest to find the cheapest (drinkable) beer in Hanoi - I shall report back with the results!

After a well deserved rest for a day and a brief exploration of the shops, cafes and nearby lake (with swooping night bats!) we set out on a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda. A two hour bumpy bus ride took us through some equally stunning scenery and more bustling little villages after which we arrived at the start of the Yen Stream where our group hopped on one of hundreds of small wooden rowing boats ferrying passengers to the temples, caves and pagodas beyond. Many thousands of Vietnamese travel along a pilgrimage on this route to the Huong Tich Cave and we made the one hour slog up the steep slippery mountain alongside hundreds of Vietnamese - it was fascinating, but rather exhausting. After the hike we opted for the cable car ride down the mountain and were again treated to some magnificent views.

That night we met up with fellow Guernsey/Bristol peeps John and Emma and after a quick beer reunion (0.0720489 GBP per beer!!!) we booked a couple of trips out of Hanoi - a three day trekking trip north to the mountains around Sapa and a two day chill-out boat trip around Halong Bay - we can't wait!