Up in the hills

We've finally found decent internet and there's so much to catch up on! First off, we spent 4 days in Northern Vietnam with John and Emma - we took a 3 day trekking trip up to the former hillstation of Sapa in the highlands (1650 metres), close to the Chinese border.

After a pretty grotty overnight sleeper train-ride up there, we met May, who was to be our guide for the next 2 days. As we left the main town of Sapa, the fog that usually covers the area lifted and the spectacular view emerged. Sapa is surrounded by rice terraces and small villages home to several different hill-tribes, few of whom consider themselves Vietnamese although they are subject to the same laws. They are mostly Dzao and Black H'mong people who live very basic lives - although they have learnt how to make plenty of money out of tourists!

Black H'mong girls

May was a 17-year-old Dazo girl from a local village who had moved to Sapa a year ago to learn English and become a guide - and also to escape the two attempted marriages her parents had tried to arrange!

She took us 15km on the first day of trekking - on small tracks through the hills, along the stoney edges of paddy steps and across streams, hopping on slippery rocks. We stopped at Muong Hoa river where Tim and I took a dip - much to the amusement of the local fishing boys - before stopping in Y Linh Ho village for lunch. Another couple of hours later, having passed through Lao Chai and plenty more rice fields, we arrived at Ta Van village for the night, where we stayed with a local Dzao family.

We met up with two other couples at the homestay, and after a feast of Vietnamese food and Tiger beer (along with the three shots of rice wine - ugh!) we collapsed for an early night under our mosquito nets. Unfortunately our grand tour of the world's greatest snorers was to continue, and we were kept awake by the growls of our Canadian neighbour. And of course from then on I was kept awake for about three hours, scaring myself silly listening to all the crazy mountain noises - pack dogs barking, birds/rats/bats in the roof above our heads, killer mosquitos etc etc...

After breakfast on day two we continued our trek, heading up through bamboo forests and down the Giang TaChai waterfall, before heading back to the town of Sapa. It was such a good feeling to be out in the open, surrounded by such beautiful scenery and getting somewell-needed exercise.

The only thing interrupting our fun was my total irrational fear of chickens - which we encountered around every corner. Bird flu! Bird flu! Eventually I gave up holding my breath every time we found ourselves within a couple of metres of the evil creatures, although I did freak out when I discovered that our homestay kept a whole bunch of chickens, and that i had to walk past them every time I needed the (outdoor) toilet!

On the last day we took a trip to Bac Ha, a nearby town famed for its colourful Sunday market. Flower H'mong people get all dressed up in their traditional clothes and sell it to tourists who think it suits them. Lots of other lovely things - and we bought our fair share!

Flower H'mong girls