Grem and Teej - on their way (back)

Sunday 9 July 2006

Shigatse shenanigans

After the somewhat basic town of Gyantse (3,950m) we traveled a couple of hours down the road to Tibet’s second largest city of Shigatse (3,900m). Not only was this an opportunity to relax a little before our onward ascent towards Everest but two members of our group, Ed and Michelle, enjoyed birthdays over the two days we stayed. So we went out for a slap up dinner, gave out pressies to the lucky two (nice utility pants guys!) and gorged on a magnificent birthday cake, all of which was followed by a visit to a Tibetan Nangma.

A Nangma is a Tibetan nightclub but it is best described as a cross between a Blackpool cabaret show and the Tibetan version of Pop Idol. We sat in a booth a tactical distance from the sizeable stage awaiting the entertainment, and what entertainment it was! Numerous acts ranging from traditionally clad dancing girls to teen-pop wannabes graced the stage and at intervals we rewarded our favourite acts by placing a white scarf around their necks – a sign of appreciation and respect in Tibetan culture. All in all a very entertaining night out!





The next day we visited the Tashilinpo monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama, second only to the head guy, the Dali Lama. Our second night in Shigatse was marred by daylight robbery of the football variety. Less said about that the better.







The result of too little sleep, too much beer at altitude and a thorough lack of a deserved England victory (why always penalties?!!) resulted in a blurry start to our journey to the town of Sakya, located amongst yet more spectacular mountainous surroundings and perched at a staggering 4,280m. We visited the local monastery housing the Sakya or Red hat sect of Buddhism and then headed towards the hills for a kora around the small town. Even walking at a quick pace at this altitude is hard work let alone climbing the admittedly small slope towards the chortens overlooking the town. We were all feeling the effects of altitude by this stage with results ranging from shortness of breath, pins and needles in various places, all the way through to bizarre and psychedelic dreams!



We indulged in our last hot shower for a few days and stocked up on sleep ready for the long drive to Qomolangma National Park, home of the king of mountains – Everest!

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